There are a few reasons why your dog may be counter-surfing right now. Though it's not the most troublesome of behaviours, it can be an indicator of some common issues that we can easily prevent and manage so that dinner time is enjoyable for all! Let's start with your dog's feeding habits/rituals. If they're not into their food, they may be counter-surfing or even begging for other food because it's a means to eating something they prefer. You can read this article if your dog isn't into their food. If your dog does eat his food but would rather try to get to the food you're having or anything that's being left on the counter, one way that you can help manage the environment to help them keep all four on the ground is to provide them with food puzzles or snuffle mats that'll further engage their attention. Tried the above and your dog is still counter-surfing? Consider the following: 1. Is your dog feeling bored/does feeding time = getting attention time? Counter-surfing, begging or whining can be signs that your dog has found in those activities a little bit of a 'problem' or a game to take on if they're feeling bored or understimulated. It can also be something they practice when they're too tired and don't know how to rest (see the second point for more details) on their own. And so what you will want to do is plan accordingly, to set yourself and your dog up for success by doing physically, mentally and even socially-stimulating activities not too long before lunchtime or dinner time, to help your dog feel more mellow and relaxed. A dog that's feeling more mellow is one that's more receptive to training or receiving your guidance, as opposed to one that is feeling very energetic, and simply looking for some engaging outlets to put that energy towards! 2. Provide your dog with an alternative. If your dog doesn't know what to do, simply confronting and telling them to not jump or counter-surf will likely not work. Instead, you will want to provide your dog with an alternative that feels just as good, or even better, for them to practice instead of counter surfing. If you've practiced the first point above, then it should be doable to guide your dog with their leash towards their bed, wait for them to lay down and reward them with a special treat before dinner time, as to let them know that they have something they can do on their own end WHILE you focus on dinner. Each dog will respond to this differently. Dogs that have learned this type of relaxation exercise in class may have an easier time staying in that position/feeling on their own. If your dog keeps getting up you will want to gently guide them back to their bed. With enough practice and repetition, your dog will learn that what you're asking of them is to wait on it (and ensure it pays off with a high-value reward, especially the first times you try this.). If your dog has a really hard time staying away from you and the action, you may need to consider the point below as well. 3. If being away and giving you distance is something that's very difficult for your dog, then it's going to take some time. While your dog is learning that it's enjoyable and rewarding to give you space during dinner time, you will still want to ensure that you're preventing counter-surfing altogether. Because even if your dog isn't yet doing the behaviour you want (waiting elsewhere while you eat) you want to make sure that you practice making it so they can't practice the unwanted behaviour. And you can do so by assigning a member of your household that will help walk your dog away as he gets closer to the table or kitchen area. Walking away ensures that your dog doesn't get to jump or counter-surf and it's eventually the action that you will want your dog to do all on their own (especially if it's difficult for them to simply stay and wait somewhere else) so be sure to make it fun and rewarding for them to walk away from the table with you. Simply repeating this exercise of walking, in combination with the first two points will create for a little bit of an exercise that burns any extra mental or physical energy your dog may have, which can then encourage them to naturally want to take a break and not feel the need to counter-surf.

When it comes to potty training, having our puppies and dogs let us know that they want to be allowed into the backyard or taken out for a walk for their potty break can be super convenient for you and I. This can be an easy way to prevent indoor accidents and not have to wonder when it's time to take your furry friend out, however, there may be a different behaviour (or multiple) at play that you'll want to consider, and that may matter more than potty accidents, in the long term. Let's remember that dogs will always repeat behaviours that work for them. And so, in the practice of learning that they can prompt you the moment they need a potty break, a behaviour they may be getting used to each time, is that he/she needs to indicate to you anytime they want you to respond. This isn't a big issue when it comes to potty training. Preventing potty training accidents by monitoring how much water our puppies drink, when they last went outside and how much their bladder can handle requires a lot of effort. However, this is something most households end up getting consistent with, with time. That said, if you've been using a bell at the door for your puppy to let you know each time they needed to be let out, you may be predisposing your dog to a habit closely tied to other common, yet unwanted behaviours many dogs exhibit in and around their home. Behaviours such as biting, barking, chewing, jumping, whining and many others often stem from a need that isn't being met, and your dog is trying their best to convey that to you through those actions. But the common denominator between these behaviours and your dog using a bell at the door is that he/she has learned that you need and should to be told when something needs to be done, as opposed to your dog instead just waiting for you to do it, without them having to prompt you. This routine that gets practiced on a daily basis can become one of the reasons your dog begins to practice some of the unwanted behaviours above. Not to say that they are directly related, as there are many other factors in play. But the key element to note is that by using a doorbell as a tool to have our dogs tell us when something needs to happen, we are more likely to encourage types of unwanted behaviour, where your dogs choose to take action before you. Does this mean you shouldn't use a bell at the door and avoid any types of setups where your dog initiates the action (like your dog telling you when they're in the mood to play fetch, or when they're ready for a walk)? No, as the bell can act as a useful tool like any other, however, you want to make sure that you provide your puppy or dog with enough opportunities where you're letting them know that the bell is but an occasionally helpful tool, as opposed to a means to get things to happen with you. As much as you make use of the bell, make sure that you practice taking your dog out for a bathroom break prior to them asking you to. Keep track of the number of times in between potty breaks and take your dog out a little 5-10 mins past that (before they even consider using the bell), as to also strengthen his or her bladder but above all to let them know that you know exactly when they need something, without them telling you! Practice this and other situations where you're providing your dog with what they need before they even know it to further strengthen your bond and communication towards one another. Just like you would for any other person you share a very special relationship with, because who doesn't like feeling like they get to just kick back and trust that someone knows what, when, and how they need things?

Likely out of feeling too hot (especially with longer-haired breeds) or because they're choosing to lay down at a spot closer to something or someone that they'd like to be near to, if their bed is too far from it.

1. The American Kennel Club 2. Facebook groups. Breed-centric Facebook groups consist of pet parents who live and have experience with your dog's breed.

As soon as you get your pup! See with your vet and training school as to how soon you can join their group classes but you should be able to either begin private training on your own at home with the basics and/or have a reputable trainer come to you to get you started on the right paw. Dogs are never too young or too old and puppies are like sponges, learning and taking everything in the moment you bring them home!

There's no rush! Especially if you have a young dog that isn't up to date on their shots yet. If that's your only option for socialization, make sure you start slowly and at your dog's pace. Prior to attending a dog park, make sure your dog has a good recall and has practiced getting to meet different types of dogs (not just size & breeds but play styles and demeanours) in more controlled environments. This will better prepare both you and your dog for this type of unregulated environment. Something else you can do and that I strongly recommend, is to take your dog around the dog park (especially when young) and just walk around it, past dogs and people. Your dog will still get to smell, see and hear everything going on at the park. But what will happen is your dog will learn that even though all of that is happening, what's important is that he/she walks and give you their attention, no matter what. This will build mutual trust and you can from then on get closer and closer to the park.

Have you heard pet parents and dog trainers (reputable ones at least!) say, “All dogs learn by association.”? This means that dogs connect specific feelings with situations, experiences, objects, animals, and people. Think of it like getting a lollipop at the doctor’s office when you were a child—a positive association that made the visit a little more bearable and positive. Dogs, however, experience these associations on an even deeper level, as this is a very reliable way that they learn to navigate their world, especially when it comes to the feeling of safety. Positive association is one of the most powerful tools we have in dog training. That’s because when a dog associates something with a good experience, they’re more likely to respond positively to that something in the future, which can help you further your dog training goals. This is a major reason why positive reinforcement is such a reliable and humane training method that everyone can put to practice daily, no matter the issue or concern you’re wanting to tackle. Why Association Matters Imagine your dog’s first vet visit or grooming appointment. If they have a painful or scary experience, they’re very likely to remember that next time and may resist going. The intelligence in a dog can lie in being able to quickly associate specific details that they’ve linked with a specific experience, good or bad. In the case of visiting the dog groomer, your dog might associate (or at the very least exhibit a worrisome-like reaction) you grabbing the leash to take them out for a walk with a potential visit to the groomer. This can depend highly on the dog, but also just how pleasant or unpleasant the grooming appointment was. Making it all the more important that your dog’s groomer does their very best to make your dog feel comfortable throughout their session. And something you can do on your end to help in this example would be to take your dog for happy visits to their vet and grooming appointments to help them feel and experience regular positive feelings, in contrast to the fewer visits where something challenging happens. This is important to put effort in, as dogs lack the reasoning abilities that you and I have—they therefore can’t rationalize why they might need a shot or a nail trim. Their main takeaway will be how the experience made them feel. You can think of it as when you go to a restaurant and their service isn’t the best. So you then leave the restaurant feeling like you might not want to return again.. What Can You Do? To prevent negative associations, you will want to take proactive steps to help your dog have as many positive experiences as possible under your care. You can do this by going to the vet’s office for a “happy visit” or visiting the groomer when you don’t have an appointment, for example. This will help build trust and comfort, all at your dog’s pace. Most vet offices and establishments offer happy visits , especially for puppies and older dogs. These short, stress-free visits allow your dog to see the vet as a friendly place, not somewhere to fear. This makes future visits smoother for both you and the vet, allowing for a safer, more relaxed experience. That way you’re not taking your dog to them only for appointments where something negative (in your dog’s eyes) would happen, forming an overall negative association which can make it difficult for everyone. For other types of situations that your dog is unsure of, you can put together a list of up to 5 ways that you could go about a similar activity or interaction, in a way that makes things feel easy and doable for your dog. For example, if your dog is reactive and unsure about other dogs, you can select an open space where you can focus on playing games with your dog, while others do their own thing at a far distance. Then you can pause and watch them for a second before resuming. Today you might do that for 5 minutes, tomorrow for 10, and so on. Or if your dog isn't keen on handling in general, you can try something like Chirag's bucket game to make your dog feel included and more comfortable with the experience. Applying Positive Association at Home With what you’ve learned, start applying positive association to everyday situations your dog might potentially dislike or is rather new to—like vacuuming, crate time, or wearing a harness and being handled in general. Much like happy visits, keep these interactions light, short, and super rewarding. Over time, your dog will begin to look forward to these experiences, making your life and theirs easier and more enjoyable.