Myself and other dog trainers I know get asked this question quite often when the topic of harnesses comes up during our training sessions. And to cut to the chase, the short answer is no. But the longer answer is that any tool or product (excluding items designed to inflict pain) you use will require time, practice, patience, and the right training methods to help you and your dog reach your goals together. Should you decide to get a harness and walk your dog with it instead of a collar, an irrefutable argument for harnesses is that they are a far safer option as they relieve your dog's neck of any pressure (especially with growing puppies) as well provide a more secure option to a collar that could potentially slip off or break with enough pulling or pressure. The most ideal harnesses, particularly Freedom (No Pull) Harnesses will come with a clip at the back, as well as the front. Both clips can be used together in unison with a double-clip leash to better guide heavy pullers, and the front clip on its own can also be relied on to guide an eager, happy-go-lucky dog by redirecting their chest and body towards you so that you can further guide them. The back clip can also be used as you work your way to more and better communication with your dog on walks (a must!), but this is where a lot of pet parents will think that harnesses encourage pulling, seeing how sled dogs wear them to do their job and for good reason. Even if you were to not at all consider the suggestion that harnesses make for a better training and walking tool, ultimately if you have a dog that is already pulling on their collar, switching to a harness will at the very least add a layer of safety to your outings.

Getting a puppy? Wondering what you should go shopping for? Let’s go through a list of must-have puppy items (worth considering if you’re getting an older dog too!) that I recommend getting before or after bringing home your new pooch. Cat bell Are we starting the list with a cat product? Yes! Think of a cat bell in the same way as a baby monitor for a newborn baby. A little cat bell on your pup’s collar can let you know when he/she is just getting ready to wake up and perhaps needs to pee, poop, or spend time with you! Responding to a cat bell will prevent your pup from feeling the need to let you know that they need something themselves, through nipping, barking, whining, etc. Who doesn't like to have their needs met without having to ask? While on the topic of bells, what about potty bells by the door? Our thinking is that if you use a cat bell or if you know your pup well, then your dog will likely not need to let you know when they need something. Bells attached to the door can also be a way that very smart dogs can indicate that they're bored and just want to step outside/are in need of attention. All of which is preventable! Collar & harness Even if you don't believe or like using harnesses, either because you're been told that harnesses encourage pulling (which is incorrect), if there is one thing about harnesses that's irrefutable is that harnesses are the safest option for dogs, especially puppies. A properly fit harness is very difficult for a dog to accidentally slip out of. But above all, puppies who wear harnesses are then at zero risk of developing any neck injuries while they're still young because their leash will be clipped to their chest or back, instead of their neck. And safety is simply #1! What about collars? Get one, even if you get a harness, because you want to use harnesses mostly when you're going to take your dog for a walk or go to a social setting. While a collar can be worn for longer periods and hold their relevant tags and information. Pee pads Prior to your pup being ready to start going potty outside, pee pads are still the number 1 option as far as indoor potty training goes. This is because they are easy to clean, meaning they will leave little to no odors behind (unlike grass patches or other options) and the goal will be to stop using pee pads sooner than later, as you get to know your dog's bladder better and better. There are exceptions to this recommendation, however, such as if your puppy or dog has a really tough time not chewing destroying them when they're out (please consult your trainer if this is the case) or if you want to opt for a plastic or fake grass alternative that you can simply wash often, not avoid having to purchase, use, and throw away a large number of pee pads. Crate The way we see a crate should be the same as the way we see our bedroom. It's the place where we go to rest, take a break, calm down, relax, and sleep after a long day of work, or simply when we need a nap! Crate training also encourages pet parents to avoid using the crate as a means of punishment, or giving a dog, especially a puppy, a time out as this can cause frustration for them and they won't always fully understand why they got placed in there unless, you practice guiding them mostly because you know they're feeling sleepy, and are in need of rest. Crate cover Every crate should come with a crate cover! Covers help make your dog's crate feel a little bit more like a den that a dog would burrow into because it's darker and drowns out exterior noise. Perfect for all dogs, as well as puppies and sensitive dogs. You will want to be most mindful with long-haired breeds and dogs who get hot easily, as this can instead make for more of an overly warm room that your dog won't find comfortable. To prevent this, make sure the room in which your dog's crate is in is well ventilated, and that their bedding also helps them feel cool. Want to know what type of bedding is best for your dog's breed? Click here to find and join its corresponding Facebook group where you can talk with pet parents who live with your dog's breed and know better than anyone else! Dog bed Speaking of bedding, selecting the right bed for your dog is key! Especially when you're hoping that your dog will learn to stay on it, particularly if you're not relying on their crate all the time. If you chose to place it inside your dog's crate, our recommendation is that you make sure that it doesn't the inside of the crate in full, so that your dog has the option between laying on their bed or directly on the crate tray. Some dogs like that! Especially when they feel too warm. Portable carrier Yes, this one won't be applicable to all dogs, depending on their breed, but chances are that while your pup is still really young, it will still fit in a portable carrier bag designed for dogs. This is a great means of transportation for them, especially when going to new and very stimulating places like the veterinary or groomer. Not having to worry about walking all the way in can be helpful for a puppy. You can also work and train your puppy to like its carrier by turning it into an outlet for them to snuffle food inside it. Licky mat Licky mats and Kongs are perfect for when puppies have had a chance to play and run around, as well as use their brain to learn new tricks and try out new puzzles, and other mental stimulation games. They're not the best at providing much of a challenge for smart dogs, so be sure to use them to help your puppy lick, relax and mellow out. Kongs/chew toys It's no secret that dogs need to chew, especially when they're still growing. This helps them feel better, soothe and relax. And just like licky mats, it's best to provide them when your dog is feeling mellow and n needs to just have something to nibble on, before a nap or bedtime. The misconception about Kongs and chew toys is that they provide mental enrichment, which they do to a certain extent, especially for very young puppies but as far as problem-solving and mental stimulation, you should look into other options first and have Kongs or chew toys act more like a pacifier for a baby. Tug and pull toys A must! Dogs naturally tug and pull with their bodies when they play with one another, or when they find an object they want to start a game with. It's natural for them and really satisfying. And contrary to popular belief, this isn't something that neither instigates prey drive, 'aggression', or any kind of 'dominance'. If your dog exhibits any of those things, it wouldn't be because of a game that is meant for dogs to feel good playing together, and build trust and companionship, no different than how we see sports and other competition and game-like activities. And speaking of building trust, this also applies to dog-to-human relationships! So get on the ground, grab a tug-and-pull toy, and do your best to get your dog interested in playing a game with you! Do keep it short and sweet but trust us when we say that this will only help in strengthening your bond with your dog, and let them know that it's fun to do things with and for you. Balls Fetch, digging and hiding them, pulling treats out of them are all ball-related activities that dogs love doing with you, but also on their own. Get all different types of balls for your dog and keep them on a rotation, to continuously keep your dog guessing and engaged! Snuffle mats Suffle mats are a human-made recreation of a dog's grass-like environment where they would scavenge and search for bits of food to eat. Bringing home a snuffle mat for your dog and even going as far as using it to replace his or her dog bowl is something your dog will thank you for. It's also a great way to help them burn energy, slow down their eating, and slow down their energy as a whole, especially after a long, over-stimulating day. Food puzzles Compared to snuffle mats, food puzzles are a more challenging, generally plastic-made, snuffling and scavenging option for dogs. Typically much more difficult and problem solving-like than snuffle mats, these are great for feeding your dog, slowing them down, but above all providing them with a very engaging exercise for their brain on a daily basis. Getting a more challenging level to start instead of an easy one is recommended, as you can always find ways to make it easy for your dog and go from there without having to purchase multiple levels. Doggy Water bottles Water bottles are my preferred method of giving my pup water (unless I need to be away from them for long periods of time) as opposed to water bowls, mainly because it makes it easier to keep track of their water intake (preventing unnecessary pee accidents), especially with multiple-member households and it also creates for a great opportunity to share a moment with your dog as you provide them their water directly to them, instead of them going to their water bowl on their own with little to no interactions with you at such a young age when sharing should be a top priority. Winter gear Make sure that your pup's body temperature is where it needs to be at all times. Even if you've gotten your pup way before the cold winter months, now is the perfect time to begin socializing them with their winter coat and boots, so that by the time the cold weather comes, you're all set and ready to face it together! Waist leash The umbilical cord exercise is one of my favourites and the best way it can be done it's with a waist leash. The exercise consists of walking around your home with your dog and rewarding them for choosing to join you on your chores and other activities so that they find pleasure in walking alongside you. This also helps minimize surprise potty training accidents and if you use a waist leash, you will be hands-free to do what you need around your home. Get one that comes with, or add to this a treat pouch for extra pet parent awesomeness. Short leash Start walking your dog on a short leash. By walking in and out of your home randomly, to help him or her get used to the idea of simply stepping out with you but comfortable coming back with you as you need. You can get a longer leash (often called a log line) as they get older and you feel as though you have more and more trust in them outside. Nail clipper/trimmer Probably the least fun item on the list, for both your pup and you, but a definite must. Grooming is inevitable, whether you practice your way to doing it for your dog their entire life, or if you hire someone. But one of the most challenging aspects of getting your dog groomed is their nails getting clipped. This is where you can do a lot to help prevent future discomfort, by socializing them to different types of nail clippers and trimmers. Consult with your future groomer, I'm sure that they'll be happy to share any tips that'll also help them do their job more easily!

Let's take a look at the top 5 best-selling feeding items on Amazon. It's interesting seeing what other pet parents are choosing and exploring how each item may/may not be beneficial for your dog or puppy and in which ways. let's take a look! #1. Dog Lick Pad with Suction Cups A great addition to your bag of dog items! Especially great for travel or when you want to take your dog on a road trip and want to make sure they can have a break licking the mat. Licky mats can be great to help keep your dog distracted when grooming, but they're not going to guarantee that your dog feels comfortable with every aspect of grooming and handling so keep that in mind! You can freeze and keep a couple of these in your freezer ready for when your dog or pup is having a hard time relaxing. I wouldn't recommend this as an activity for a bored/high-energy dog as they may not make much use of it or they may just try to chew it instead of licking. I like to use licky mats mostly to help young puppies settle and relax after exciting fun play or training activities. #2. Slow Feeder Bowl Perfect for slowing down a fast eater for sure! It'll also add a little extra fun to feeding time that regular feeding bowls don't provide. Are there better options available though? Is this a good solution for all dogs? If you've just brought home a really young puppy, this slow feeder can be a fantastic solution to encourage slow eating AND provide some mental enrichment. But there are definitely far better options that'll both slow down your dog's eating and help them burn some extra calories through a mental enrichment challenge! Particularly as your pup gets older, you might want to consider swapping this slow feeder for a combination of snuffle mats and food puzzles. #3. Food Puzzles Speaking of which! This is by far my favourite item on this list, as it shows us that pet parents are more and more interested in providing enrichment toys and mental stimulation outlets for their dogs at home. Puzzles are AMAZING at providing a light and fun outlet for your dog to get to use his or her brain to find each piece of their kibble (or even raw food!) while also slowing down how fast your dog eats which is a plus. Puzzles come in different types and levels of difficulty, but my tip would be to start with a more difficult one for your dog because you can always make it easier by helping your dog out. If you have a food puzzle that your dog finds too easy, you can always try wrapping it around in a towel to make it more engaging for your dog to find, and even in a box, for some extra snuffling fun! #4. Water Dispenser A water dispenser can be a great idea if you have a busy schedule and want to make sure your dog doesn't miss out on a single drop of water at home! There's one particular instance, however, where I would advise against using a water dispenser. During puppyhood! At this young age, you want to not only make sure that you're very closely monitoring your puppy's water intake to better manage potty training. But even more importantly, providing your puppy with food and water should be something that you get to do as they need it as a way to further bond with them and have them do amazing things with you! #5. Food Storage Container Combo There's nothing better than being organized in your life, AND in your pup's! Keeping your dog's food and treats in labeled containers can make it really easy for you (or someone dog sitting) to access. One more thing you can do is keep your dog's food in its original bag that it came in, to further keep it fresh and smelling stronger. When it comes to puppy training, you may also want to consider keeping some additional treats in jars and small containers located in different, common areas of your home so that you can easily reward good behaviour!

It's a common problem for many households, to see their dog not be interested in their food. Leaving this concern unattended could potentially lead to health-related issues, and it could also be a possible sign of a few behavioural challenges that aren't healthy for your dog's overall mindset and well-being. In this blog post, we'll be taking a look at what those reasons may be, and what you can do about it! Let's start with the more obvious item to consider which would be the taste of your dog's food. Since dogs taste their food by smelling it, if their food doesn't happen to come with a strong enough scent, it would make it less appetizing for your dog. If you're worried that your dog isn't interested in his or her food due to its flavour, you will want to first take this up with your dog's veterinary (if unsure, please get a second opinion from different vets) so that they may provide you with different options you can consider and try. Oftentimes the answer lies in simply providing your dog with a bit more variety, whether it's about alternating between different flavours of dog food and/or mixing them together. So long as no health risks are involved, this is where you will want to start! If you've tried this and seen no improvement in your dog's desire to eat, the next thing you will want to consider is if your dog has other options or other access to food (more likely human food) that isn't meant for him but that he prefers over his. Dogs are smart animals and if waiting and holding off means they will get something they prefer over their food, they will. And so you want to make sure that the only option for your dog is their own food, for consistency reasons as well as safety and putting their own health first, with their regular food that's recommended for them. If you've got the best dog food ready, and you're making sure that your dog has no other ways of getting to more tasty/human food, then there's one more very important element you want to consider, and it applies to all animals. When and How is your dog getting his food? By nature, animals have to do amazing things to get access to the food they want and need. Elephants travel long distances to find water, leopards hunt each meal they get, and stray dogs scavenge and search for every scrap available. This means that the natural instinct that your dog has to do something to obtain their next meal is just as important as the meal itself. And so you'll want to reevaluate how your dog gets to have their food in the first place. Is it by waiting for table scraps to drop? Or is it via a bowl that doesn't provide them with much of an activity to get to their food? These details are very important for your dog, especially young, energetic/smart dogs that love doing things with you before/while being rewarded with food. What you will want to try next is reconfiguring how your dog gets their food. Something easy you can do is try re-introducing it during walks (you might want to mix treats in to begin) and even toss pieces of their kibble as you walk to turn it more into a scavenging-like activity. This is also fantastic for burning mental energy while on walks. Another idea in combination with the walk is to use food puzzles and snuffle mats indoors. You may want to try those AFTER a walk or after a fun game of fetch, or tug & pull where your dog would've gotten rid of a bit of their physical energy, in order to then more easily focus on how to use their nose and brain to get to their meal. Bonus tip! If nothing works, you will want to try exercises like agility games indoors where you and your dog go out of your way to go through fun games together where your dog needs to overcome obstacles and engaging tricks together to increase their appetite in their food (you may need to mix in some treats here as well to start!)!

There's a lot that goes into getting a puppy! So it's important that you're as informed as possible before making this exciting, life-altering decision. You and your new puppy will be learning quite a many different things throughout your new journey together, but before you even decide to get a pup, here are a few important things you will want to consider. Costs: Though no one can put a price on the joy that a dog can bring you, you still want to make sure you're not breaking the bank to meet your pup's needs. The costs you will need to consider strongly are veterinary bills, planned (vaccinations, surgeries such as neutering/spaying), and sadly unplanned treatments as well. Private training and group training classes are also strongly recommended and may vary in pricing depending on which dog training school you go with. Add to this potential daycare and dog sitting services. Food, supplies (water bowls, bedding, crate, blothing), and toys are all also additional and essential costs you will need to spend in a variety of amounts regularly. The specific pricing varies strongly on your region/area so be sure to do some research, ask around and write some numbers down! Outlets/enrichment needs: Working with as many pet parents as we do, a common factor we've encountered is a proper lack of either understanding or considering of what all dogs need when it comes to enrichment. Just like you and I, dogs are capable and in strong need of new and different activities to do and learn from on a regular basis. Their brain is capable of achieving amazing things which is what makes dogs man's best friend. And so, it's important to note that whether you get a chihuahua or a husky, all dogs require having regular access to activities where they get to use their body and brain, to their heart's content. Socialization outlets: Dogs are one of the most social animals on the planet, and the last thing you want is to raise a dog or puppy that has a tough time in social settings. This is not to say that dogs don't have their own individuality and some enjoy socializing more than others because they do, but in order to get to the point where you're discovering what your dog likes and wants, you first need to provide them with what they need. And what all dogs and puppies need are safe, controlled socialization outlets that they can get the most out of, and come home feeling like they got that itch of theirs scratched. Dog sitting/boarding: Your work schedule (and how it may potentially change with time) is a very important factor to consider but as a result, you may need to have lined yourself up with options that will allow you to have someone care and watch over your dog when you're not available. Personality and compatibility: This is an important item to consider and at the same one the hardest to prepare for because there's simply no way to know exactly what your puppy's personality will be, especially as it may change and vary with time. However what you can take into close consideration is the type of personalities of your puppy's parents, as there is a strong possibility that your pup will draw from both, sometimes more one than the other. But even then, you want to make sure that you consider and mentally prepare for the possibility that even though you were hoping to bring home a calm and easy going puppy, that what you may end up getting is a very eager, gogogo pooch! Lifestyle: This last point ties in closely with the previous one. Though you can prepare to make the most of your pup's personality, where we've found that a lot of pet parents struggle (which is what unfortunately leads to a lot of dogs needing to be rehomed) is when they realize that their lifestyle perhaps doesn't match their dog's needs and wants. This is a tough situation to navigate but if you take a close look at your current lifestyle and how much it could potentially be affected by your dog's personality, needs, and wants, you can then more adequately make the decision of getting a puppy.

Prevention is the best method to handle any unwanted behaviour or issues when training your dog. Just by nature, dogs are intuitive experts at quickly assessing and reacting to different situations. This behaviour varies with how they have learned to handle and respond to daily activities, such as going for walks, interacting with other animals, or meeting new people. When it comes to teaching your dog how to act around children, you want to make sure that you’re doing everything you can to help your pup create only positive and trusting associations with kids. Respect is crucial for both parties, for just as you need to teach your kids to respect the dog, you must teach the dog to respect the children. But how can you guarantee that the first introduction goes well? There are three simple and useful exercises you can follow when introducing your dog to children. 1. Distance = Respect Dogs, like most animals, give distance to each other show as a sign of respect for another’s space. Sometimes, people misinterpret this as though the dog is acting afraid and avoiding the perceived danger. While that can be true, it’s important that you first look at the dog’s body language to determine whether he/she is showing respect or fear. It's important to make sure this level of respect is being reciprocated by having the kids give the dog some distance upon their first meetings/interactions. It’s important that the dog knows your kids aren’t a threat, so help them do their best to avoid looking, touching or talking to the dog if they're unsure of his feelings. Especially make sure that eye contact is avoided at this point; most children don’t know how to read a dog’s body language and may mistake or overlook signs of insecurity, fear, excitement, etc. Proceed on your pup’s terms. Don’t have the kids come to your dog, but just patiently wait for your pup to feel relaxed enough to approach them. It might take some time, but all dogs will let you know when it's time for friendly and calm introductions. One thing that is not necessary is for the kids to hold their hands out for the dog to smell. At this point, it’s actually better if the kids refrain from any type of contact until the pup is completely calm. By doing this, you’ll ensure that the dog’s initial feeling when meeting children in the future will always involve staying calm... which, of course, can then escalate into fun playtime when it’s appropriate and on your terms, not the dog's. 2. Getting a Head Start Like all animals, dogs simply react. They don’t exactly contemplate the meaning of their actions, ponder over nor plan what they will do next. If another dog or person approaches, he will react in the way that he thinks is best, right then and there. Remember, each dog is an individual and will react differently to situations. This reaction is contingent on their past experiences. Whether you are introducing your dog to a new or familiar activity, such as meeting children, you will want to do everything you can to start your dog off on the right paw. You can do this by draining as much physical energy out of your pup in preparation. How you go about this will be contingent on the dog's level of energy and what he enjoys using his energy towards. Running, playing tug of war, fetching, and so on. This will really help your dog be in a calmer and more relaxed mindset when the kids come to your home or to the location where they’ll be meeting your dog, without you feeling like you need to talk or shout your dog into calmness.. 3. Side By Side Unlike us, most dogs don’t have actual jobs or schools where they go and learn to form relationships with others every day of their lives. Still, animals in general will do everything in a group or pack; this is especially true for social animals like dogs and other members of the canine family. This includes the simplest of things such as eating together, playing together, and, of course, hunting together. A tightly knit group of friends will more easily work well together, but when meeting a new member, most animals will try their best to avoid one-on-one confrontations if possible. Often, they’ll simply turn and walk in the same direction as the new member and walk alongside them. This begins to form a bond, similar to you and I walking with our loved ones and holding hands. So when you have children that are coming by to meet your dog, the best option is for you to take everyone out for a walk. This will not only help tire out your dog, but it will also prevent the children from getting over-excited since they’ll be focused on the walk itself. Just by walking with others, your dog will learn to trust new people more easily. By focusing on this productive activity, your dog will learn that calmly following your lead results in rewards, whether that reward is food, treats, playtime, or simply the walk itself.

Most people think of puppy socialization in terms of meeting other dogs, puppies and people but it's so much more than that! A well socialized dog is one that knows how to make good and safe decisions in social settings. This includes everything from being handled, to following your guidance regardless of different sounds, smells and sights around them. Add to the mix touching and stepping on different textures and objects. Taking baby steps, do your best to expose your pup to everything and anything, starting with everything you can think of in and around your home, until it's 100% safe for them to spend more and more time outside in the real world!

I've got two males who I just got this weekend, and we are working on their transition. The biggest question is trying to get them on my family schedule. Before it was like a 24/7 buffet. Now I'm feeding them three times a day and they don't finish their food. Any recommendations? Should I leave it out for 30 minutes and then take it away until the next feeding? I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two and a little during the day if nobody's home. I didn't want to leave food in the kennel. I'm trying to keep them cleaner. I'm avoiding most human food until they are on a schedule. This is a very good question. And when it comes to multiple dogs, it's really the same thing, as with one. Ultimately it's going to be about how you provide them with their food puppies, unless, the daily intake, which is where I would double check with your vet as to how much you want to feed them, in a day. And this is where I would look into, that daily amount to potentially, not so much. I know the mentioned schedule here, they want to get the puppy on their family schedule, but when it comes to feeding, dogs don't necessarily have a schedule. Per se. So I would really look into what their daily intake is and more than anything, how I can provide them with the food that they need to be eating within that one day. And so my main recommendation would be exactly that. I would look into how they're currently getting their food. If it's from a bowl, then chances are, and it's funny that it's happening with both puppies, but chances are that they are both just not that interested in their food because of how it's being provided. Through the bowl. They don't indicate the age here, but if you have a very young puppy, an 8, 9, 10 weeks cold, then a slow feeder will do it. Just switching to a slow feeder as opposed to a bowl. And I'm assuming that we're using a bowl here. If not, then potentially, some other enrichment ideas. The ones that I'm gonna mention have already been tried, but, going from a bowl to a slow feeder. To a puzzle. Snuffle mat is definitely the way to go as far as trying new things to get your dogs to eat and enjoy their food, you can even go as far as using a cardboard box and putting towels inside. You can put towels inside old towels with. Their Kongs with their snuffle mats, with their food puzzles make the activities even more engaging and provide, as a result, a lot of mental stimulation for your dogs, which will then make them want to take a little nap afterward, but increase the value of the food that they get because of how it's being delivered. And so that would be my main recommendation as far as. How to feed them. I don't think it's going to be a matter of leaving food out for 30 minutes and then taking it away. That is a recommendation that I see a lot, but I don't personally suggest it because the main issue is that your dog doesn't really have an interest in food in the first place, and you don't wanna really swap that out. going from no interest to, feeling scared or worried and eating out of that reason, meaning eating because they're worried that the food is gonna go away. You want them to eat because they enjoy it and because it feels good, right? And so if you create fun scenarios to deliver the food that they get, and again, supplements. Puzzles boxes, a lot of DIY, options available, you can check my link below on my description so you can really see a lot of different DIY options that will not cost you a thing and will use what you already have at home if you make sure, that you are providing those during feeding time, then. Chances are that your puppy is gonna be naturally, in, in a curious, positive way, be a lot more interested in their food. So if ever you have to use a bowl or something that's not too engaging, they're still going to be likely to eat at that point because you've associated food. With a very fun activity and a very good feeling. And so, that's where I would go as opposed to leaving it out for a little bit and taking it away. I don't really recommend that. I recommend feeding them in fun and engaging ways so that they really look forward to their food and will eat their daily intake. "I kennel them for the night minus a bathroom break or two." As far as leaving food in the kennel, it's not generally something I recommend, I'm fairly strict when it comes to using a dog's crater or their kennel because at a young age, I wanna make sure that we associate it as much as possible with rest and food doesn't necessarily equate to that. It can lead to that if you want to leave food in their kennel, I would do it in a way that is a little bit more, engaging and that's where I would turn to, a Kong, a frozen Kong with a bit of food in there can be something that I really, really like using. Be. Cause a Kong that is provided when a puppy has already done their activities, their engagement routine, physical, and mental socialization, and stimulation. A Kong is a little bit like the pacifier at the end of the day, at the end of the activities that are going to help them soothe and relax just by. Nibbling at it just by chewing it. Just by knowing it, your puppy is going to not just get, the remainder of food that you want them to have, but is also going to mellow out as a result, and they're already in their crate, so they're then likely to just fall asleep and just rest in their crate as a result.

Dog trainers provide group courses, drop-in classes, private training, and even online training. All in the hopes of helping pet parents meet their dog's needs but ultimately to have dogs behave and act in the way that their owners want & like. And so when pet parents think of that desired goal, there's perhaps a question they should ask themselves before picking up the phone and reaching out to their neighborhood trainer: "Why is my dog doing this particular behaviour that I dislike?" The answer to this question is a lot simpler than you may think. And if we begin to explore this motivator further and further, it can help us not only better understand but also relate to and appreciate our dogs, and thus make even better use of the training tools, approaches, techniques, and lessons we'll learn along the way. And so what is the magic answer to why your dog does what he does? Simply put, it's because it works. Dogs are no different than you when it comes to making choices and decisions. We both have the capacity and will to choose what's the most beneficial and in our best interest. And this is why, we can then more easily begin to understand that our dogs do, repeat and practice both wanted and unwanted (by us) behaviours on a daily basis. Let's go through a few examples to further bring this to light. Let's start with digging. Digging is a, more often than not, fun activity that the majority of dogs will be inclined to do naturally, and/or because they've seen another dog (or sometimes even a human) do it. This exercise can work in your dog's mind as a way to relieve stress, physical energy, or just an entertaining way to pass the time! For other dogs, it's an activity that ensures them that they'll get your attention once you see your dog digging in your backyard, where you may not want them to. Regardless of the reason behind your dog's digging, ultimately it's a reason that makes it so this behaviour works in your dog's mind in achieving some kind of goal, and thus they then feel the need to repeat it. What about barking? A dog's barking is a handy tool when it comes to communicating a myriad of feelings, emotions, and messages. Some can be as simple as "I'm very excited and barking helps me indicate that to those around me!" and in response to that, another dog can hear, understand, and respond in a way that fulfills the first dog's needs to get some excitement redirected back at him, likely in the form of play and engagement. It's easy to see in this scenario why a dog would try to repeat this behaviour under these circumstances. In other cases, a dog can bark at another across the street to let them know that they're too close for their comfort. This type of bark is one mailman and delivery carriers experience often and is even more often repeated by dogs, purely because after the barking starts, the next thing that happens is the person or dog in question likely gives them the space and distance they were asking for. And so it makes sense in a dog's mind, as to why they would continue to practice this behaviour. These examples and more are among many that help us understand that dogs don't do what they do for no reason. When they're young they try things on their own (which is where our guidance/training comes in best to redirect, prevent and manage unwanted choices) and if what they tried worked for them in one way or another, you can bet you'll see them do it again and again!

My dog isn't really eating her food, but still drinks her water. Sometimes she'll eat out of my hand or I'll have to sit right next to her. We feed her Authority and she had it since she was a puppy and she loved it. Do we have to try different foods? She has also been in heat. That's a very good question. So I'm assuming that we're not dealing with a very young puppy here, likely, an adolescent, young adult pup, or an adult dog, in this case, there are two things that you want to consider. One is, if a dog is not eating their food, it's not totally unheard of, especially with adolescent young adult dogs they can definitely go through phases even when you do everything right. And dogs, will, it, it's not at all rare for them to go without eating for long periods. A dog that is hungry will eat if you are concerned. And this is where I would first start by reaching out to your vet. If your vet is not picking up on anything with regards to your dog's health or any concerns on that in, in that area, then I would either rule it as, My dog is likely going through a phase where he or she's just not eating the food that I normally have. If they're still eager to eat treats or very interested in the human food that you have, then that could be an indicator that it's time to change food. And, or mix it with something else. That's where I would then again, go back to your vet. If your vet is recommending the same, the same type of food that she already has, then I would definitely consider reaching out to another vet. That way you can get a second opinion, potentially even a third. And a pro tip that I have is, joining a Facebook group for the breed of your dog. Oftentimes, even, better than trainers, better than vets, better than, anyone else. The people that are growing up with the breed that you have likely have a lot more information, and experience and know exactly what will work for that breed because they live with it. So consider joining a Facebook group. You can just type it up on Facebook and find a group that corresponds with your dog's breed and start a conversation there so that people can let you know what they feed their dog. How often they feed, and how they do it, and then you'll definitely see some common answers so you can go based off of that. As far as your dog eating out of your hand, or you having to sit right next to her, that can let me know that, potentially the food that you're giving your dog or feeding time in general isn't something that provides much for your dog. And I don't mean that. The food you're giving her is not good or that she doesn't like it. But feeding time is really a meaningful activity for dogs and us as well, we feed after we've had a few hours at work. During lunch, we feed. Once we've come back from work, we feed, we go to restaurants and we pay, we share things. It's a very engaging activity. And if it isn't the case for your dog, I would really look as to how she's getting her food on a daily basis because, unfortunately, most pet parents that I work with, the way that they feed through a bowl, and that is definitely the easiest, most convenient way to feed. But I would look at alternatives to that. Even just a snuffle mat, a food puzzle, or a slow feeder can be okay, but unless your puppy is eight weeks old, nine weeks old, 10 weeks old, a slow feeder probably isn't gonna provide much as far as enrichment, mental stimulation. So I would really consider snuffle mat a food puzzle as a way to feed her food. You can also, of course, do activities with her. It sounds like the activity she's gotten you to do is to sit next to her and feed her from your hand. So, it sounds silly, but to her it probably provides a little bit more stimulation than just out of her bowl. And so I would take that as a very good indicator that it's probably time to look into. Some activities that we can incorporate feeding time with to make her food, not just fulfill her stomach, but also her need, to do things, we don't have the breed here, but she likely wants to problem solve. She likely has a skillset that she wants to do, and if she's not really getting to do it in other areas or maybe, areas are not. Tied to food, now is the time so that we can reassociate the meaning to food, so that she can then enjoy even more so as a result and hopefully eat all of her food, her daily intake. And the last item on that is that she is in heat. That can very much play a role, that can affect her mood, her demeanor, her behavior. Again, I don't know how young or old she is. But if she is young, still around adolescent hood, young adult. Chances are you'll still be able to get her to eat if you change the meaning of food, or at least start there as opposed to just thinking that you need to change food, or upgrade her food to something different. Change how you provide the food because in my opinion, that is the most important element when it comes to dogs eating. It's how they get every piece that they have that you have available for them. And again, snuffle mats. Food puzzles. Kongs are great, but I would save that for the end when we want her to just lick and chew on something. But as far as the actual activity, snuffle mats, food puzzles, I would also consider, using car boxes to put the snuffle mats, put the food puzzles inside of them. Maybe even add some towels, add some more cardboard to make the activity even more engaging for her. And that of course depends on her drive. If she has little to no drive, then make the activity very easy for her to do, and then she's still going to gain the benefit of feeling good problem-solving and associating that with food.