An adequately socialized dog is one that is the most equipped and prepared to make good choices in social settings. Working with many dogs of different demeanours, sizes, breeds and ages, I noticed that the most common issue is a lack of proper socialization. Not only at an early age but also in the dog's current day-to-day life. I should clarify that socialization to me, simply put, means that a dog is able to feel good, and as a result make good choices, in most social settings. Being able to play with other dogs is really only a small (but important) part of what it means to raise a well-socialized dog. They should be able to enjoy the idea of going for walks, car rides, to different stores, and/or pet shops, their vet, groomer and so on. As well as be able to communicate to you, and feel heard, whenever something new happens that causes them some confusion. That could be anything from a new sound, a new sight or a new smell. That said, it's important to note that all dogs learn and feel comfortable socializing at completely different paces. This is critical to understand, and it's where I oftentimes see pet parents struggle, as they start to tell themselves that their shy, nervous or even reactive dog just can't behave as they'd like, in most social settings. But this is not true! What's beautiful about dogs is they're always ready to grow and learn. Making it so all we have to do is create environments and look for settings where they can do just that but at their pace and ensure that our expectations are also realistic so that we won't push them too far. That's really the best thing you can do to help your dog slowly become more and more social, whether you have a young pup or a dog with social anxiety. Developing desired social skills will always be about positivity, repetition and feel-good experiences. Do be aware of anyone who tells you that you need to 'train' your dog to be more social, or that there's a quick-fix told that'll get your dog behaving better and listening to you. These suggestions generally don't work, even with the best of intentions, as there's really no way to speed up the creation of wanted behaviours. I'm always happy to answer any questions you have and recommend the best ways to go about socializing your dog, here.

When it comes to getting your dog to listen to you, you are far more likely to reach success if you've built a strong bond together. I oftentimes see pet parents trying to rely on treats to get their dogs to do things, but I believe that treats should be used the same way gold star stickers are used in school with toddlers. They know it's there, they know how to get it, you simply need to give them the sticker after they've done what you expect. ✨ It's as simple as that. However if you try to get your dog to make a good choice that they should already be able to, by waving a treat by their nose, you are more likely to always have to rely on treats, as opposed to your bond and your dog's desire to follow your guidance, without treats. But what happens when your dog really won't listen, even without treats? This means 1 of 2 things (or oftentimes both). Either your bond and relationship with your dog is simply not strong enough yet. Think about it, do you listen to the guidance of strangers or that of your friends more? Grow your bond through enrichment activities, to stimulate your dog's need to use their body, their mind and social skills in fun and engaging ways. And/or, chances are the environment where you are asking them to listen is simply too distracting/overwhelming/challenging for you both. In which case, your best bet is to walk away, take space and try redirecting your dog once you feel the setting is a little bit easier on you both.

The dog and cat world unites! A lot of you know how big I am on preventing unwanted behaviours, as opposed to only reacting/managing them. And I'm a big believer that cat bells are great at helping us do exactly that. Let's take a quick look at just how cat bells can improve you and your dog's relationship (that's right!), and what more they can do for you. Cat bells are no longer only great for cats to wear, in order to give birds a heads up when they get too close. They're also great for dogs and puppies to wear on their collar, to give us our own kind of heads-up! A cat bell on your dog's collar can help with: ✔️ Knowing when your puppy is waking up ✔️ Providing enrichment to your dog sooner than later ✔️ Preventing sudden potty training accidents ✔️ Safety, especially for small dogs to be noticed indoors There's nothing better for a pup than feeling like his/her needs are met before they even ask for it! A cat bell is a great tool that you can use that lets you know when your puppy is waking up or getting up from their bed, which can then help you prevent unknown potty training accidents or a pup that's getting bored. Why and when cat bells are helpful for dogs to wear: Puppies and new pet parents will benefit from cat bells the most! Think of them as acting just like a baby monitor, with a newborn. Except that you don't have to wait for your puppy to cry to take action, rather, thanks to the sound of the bells, you will know just what to do. They'll let you know if your puppy is potentially waking up, and or stepping out of his or her sleeping area. In this case, it's probably a good idea to head over and take them out for a bathroom break or guide them onto their pee pads. The amazing thing with this is that your puppy will from very early on realize that he didn't need to lift a paw, to make his needs known and met!

There's a time for every dog toy, and that's how you can get the most out of them! Just like how you're more likely to play a board game when you're feeling at ease and mellow, most toys that dogs can play with on their own are best provided when their mind is feeling relaxed, from other activities with you. Especially toys like Kongs, puzzles and treat dispensers, I see them acting similarly to a baby's pacifier as they settle into nap time. This will help ensure that your dog is engaged with the toy in question and also help prevent them from overly chewing or destroying it. This treat dispenser is the Tricky Treat ball and is hands down one of my favourites!

Here are a few day to day scenarios where I think it's more than okay to pick your little one up! 1️⃣ If you're somewhere new and/or overly stimulating and your dog is having a tough time adjusting. This can look different for each dog, but sometimes walking in another direction just won't do. In that case, a reliable option is to pick your dog up so that he/she can have a well deserved mental break in your arms. 2️⃣ If you're in a high traffic area and feel like it would be safer for your dog to be in your arms. I personally feel much more comfortable if I can hold a small dog in my arms when walking across a busy intersection. This can help make things a little less scary for him/her as a whole. 3️⃣ Especially if your dog is shy, if there are going to be other, bigger and/or more boisterous dogs around, it's a good idea to begin their interactions from a safe distance and just watching, from your arms, before meeting up close. Trust your gut and intuition. I've yet to meet a small dog who had behavioural issue due to being picked up at the right time.

If you don’t get a harness for any other reason, get it for this 1 reason: You have probably heard many different opinions on dogs wearing harnesses vs other training tools. Above all, the claim that harnesses encourage pulling, which is untrue if you ask me. Flat collars, no collars, harness, no harness, no matter what option you go with, you'll want to make sure to combine it with proper training. That said, if you put training aside, there’s one aspect of wearing a harness that is the most important attribute and a priority, which is your dog’s safety! A non-negotiable. Dogs can slip out of collars and/or they can snap, wear off and give up with time. I’ve experienced or seen all of these instances as a dog trainer. Harnesses, and the Freedom (No-Pull) Harness, in particular, is one that I’ve not experienced safety concerns with yet. Especially since it comes with clips both on the front and back, to suit your dog’s walking needs. What harness do you use? I like this one.

"My dog dislikes my partner/friend/family.. Help!" It’s tough dealing with a situation where your little one is generally social and friendly with most. But yet, for one reason or another, your dog just doesn't seem to be too fond of someone close to you and you're now left having to manage that situation each time they're together. Here's what you can do to both prevent and manage unwanted/negative situations with them: Tip #1 - If most of the issues happen at your home.. If most of the issues happen at your home, as that seems to be where your dog reacts the most (this is common), you can try first meeting outside and going for a nice, pressure-free walk. You can take this a step further by doing an activity your dog is sure to enjoy with you and the other person nearby, before coming indoors. When I first met Lilo she really wasn't too into me, as it's the case with most new people. 😔 But one day she and I went on a super long and fun walk together that changed things for the better from that point on. Tip #2 - When the person coming to your home arrives.. When the person coming over to your home arrives, ask them to wait by the entrance of your home after they stepped in, instead of just walking directly in. However, the success of this can depend on just how your dog feels and reacts to this person in particular (the more challenging scenarios will encourage you to use a leash to guide your dog to take space first). But the idea is that you want your dog to be able to take his/her time to sniff, assess, think and walk away before anyone comes in. Letting your dog do this will help them feel more comfortable with the following interactions, even if they've already met before." “Knowing trees, I understand the meaning of patience. Knowing grass, I can appreciate persistence.” —Hal Borland Tip #3 - This one will sound familar.. This one will sound familiar to other advice you'll see me recommend but it's for good reason.. provide enrichment to your dog daily, ESPECIALLY when people are coming over! There's really nothing better than a dog who associates people and social interactions with relaxation and the feeling of calmness above all. Having a tired/mellow little pooch can also help them slow down, think and as a result make better choices that you're both happy with! Pro Tip! Do your best to avoid this: A common mistake a lot of pet parents (and even trainers) make, is they try to use food as a way to encourage or ease a dog's introduction to someone or a situation they may find unpleasant. This is something that may work with certain dogs, however, food or treats, in general, don't have the capability of truly forming the idea of actual comfort and safety inside your dog's heart and mind. Food can certainly help your dog go into a situation in a more positive mindset as a result, but to ensure that things remain optimistic, you will want to focus on forming a bond instead. This requires time, patience and experience. Your dog will be the one to let you know once he/she feels comfortable and safe, and that's when it's truly helpful to bring out food to reward the progress and efforts that helped your dog get to that point.

I think you'll agree with me when I say that a dog pulling on their leash is something that doesn't make going for a walk fun at all. And that's probably how your dog feels as well. Here are the top reasons why your dog is pulling on their leash and some quick tips to prevent and address each point. 1. Over-excitement/pent-up energy The line above says it all! And it can be hard sometimes to differentiate between this point and the following one. An overly excited dog is one that is either triggered by the act of going for a walk because they have through time learned that going for a walk is where they can and will get to feel this way WHILE they get to start and continue walking. There's a lot you can do to start changing that today! Start breaking down the amount of time you normally plan to spend on a walk and use 80-90% of that time doing indoor activities that will help your dog feel calm by the time it's time to go for a short & sweet, calm walk. Indoor activities can consist of tug & pull games, indoor/backyard agility games, nosework & snuffle/puzzle toys. 2. Reacting to a trigger A trigger while on a walk can be anything that'll get your dog pulling, in any direction. Whether it's towards a dog, or away from a loud car, ensuring that we first pick up on a change in our dog's body language (stiff body, perked up ears, long staring/locked eyes) will allow us to then redirect our dog towards a different feeling by showing them that they can refocus on us and lighten up as we walk away, with the help of a fun toy or a few pieces of a rare treat that get tossed in the direction you rather walk towards, calmly. If this behaviour happens early on walks, perhaps even as soon as you leave the doorstep, it's ideal that we work on very short 'going outside' sessions first, by walking in and out of the house and rewarding with food, to allow your dog to let you know when they feel more calm and relaxed prior to proceeding. 3. Overly tired Long walks and/or very mentally stimulating walks (both physically AND mentally) can cause a dog to act differently and in a more difficult manner, as they should at that moment already be back indoors relaxing, enjoying a stuffed Kong, instead of being outside on a walk if they don't yet fully know how to best regulate their own emotions at that point. Work on paying close attention to what amount of time your dog feels the most relaxed outside before they start acting differently while walking, as that'll usually be a good indicator of what their limit is, thus allowing us to move forward with shorter walks daily, to avoid walking an overly tired dog. To end things, please know that pulling is not due to the tool you use but rather a feeling, as you can see from the three points above. That said, a tool that is harm-free, safe, comfortable, and useful is freedom harnesses if you wanted to be even more prepared to work on preventing and managing a dog that pulls on walks.

Recognizing when your dog is feeling tired, frustrated, overwhelmed, or overstimulated can make all the difference when it comes to dog training and just raising a dog that is capable of making good choices, especially in social settings. Why is it so important to be aware of how our dogs are feeling? The reality is that dogs don't use words to let us know how they feel but they do use their body language and without fault. Being able to understand how and when your dog is feeling one way or another will make it so you will have an amazing relationship, that will be able to thrive in different social settings, where elements that are out of your control will present themselves to you. Understanding when it's time for your dog to take a break, to walk away, to go and relax with a kong, a puzzle, or even just go for a walk can make the difference between having a dog that learns to do that on his own, vs one that feels the need to make the world go away instead. All dogs and puppies have different body language tools to communicate how they feel. Their primary means of communication is body language, and for the most part, it's non-verbal. This means that before your dog has made the decision to bark, whine or cry at someone, something, or at a dog (which in the case of behaviour modification/reactivity it means your dog wants that trigger to go away) he has already gone through his 'protocol' body language responses, and as they have not yielded the wanted results, the need to proceed and escalate with verbal cues is what then follows. This signifies that if we learn to properly (and hopefully quickly) read and react to the non-verbal cues and provide our dogs with guidance, in the form of taking space, walking away, and redirecting them onto something else/better/more positive, we can completely prevent a dog's need to escalate to verbal signs and more, but even more importantly, we are as a result teaching a dog that remaining quiet and more at ease around you provides them with the coping and thriving mechanisms they need and long in order to be able to problem solve in social/human-made settings. It's these same dogs that are provided with proper guidance from us and at the right time, that can then decide to take longer, and feel more comfortable, before feeling the need to react. This then allows them to instead use that extra time to think and realize that perhaps there was no need to feel worried or concerned in the first place. What are some of the signs that we should look out for in our dogs, to know if they're feeling not so happy, or at the very least their normal selves? - Dilated pupils are a common indicator that a dog may be feeling overwhelmed, stressed, and not 100% comfortable with a situation. - Pacing around, back and forth, pacing towards you and away can let you know that your dog isn't feeling too sure and capable of feeling more at ease in that particular environment. - Rapid, sudden panting. Particularly if you're seeing this even though your dog hasn't done much physical activity. It's a way that dogs try to ooze/expel their stress away and feel differently. - Their nose isn't engaging with other dogs, people, or the environment. If your dog isn't using his nose regularly enough in a particular environment and is instead relying more on his ears and eyes, it can be an indicator that they're not feeling comfortable enough to rely mostly on the information they gather from smelling (despite it being much more reliable than that collected through their other senses). - Humping, jumping, and moving very fast and suddenly are also indicators that your dog is trying to cope with the environment they're in, in ways that aren't very conducive to more calm and healthier decision-making. All of these non-verbal indicators and more let us know that our dog may be feeling tired, frustrated, overwhelmed, or overstimulated. And what you want to do more than anything is to give them a break from that space, as soon as you feel a bit unsure of it. You can always come back, but as far as your dog knows, there is absolutely no obligation to return to an environment that both you and your dog feel a little bit unsure of. The most important thing is that you and your dog feel as though you will be successful no matter the terrain, but if you're trying to navigate a setup that is out of your control and challenging for you both, your best bet is to walk away and come back to a setting or at a time, that you find is a bit easier to cope and thrive with, before trying more!

Separation Anxiety: 5 Steps/Ideas to Consider Separation anxiety is a popular topic when it comes to dog training, or raising a dog in general. I would be lying if I said that it's a behaviour that I find easy to tackle, especially as each case is different from the one before it. Whether it's due to the dog's age and for long the behaviour has been going on, or sometimes purely due to the dog's natural demeanour and personality. But before worrying about the possibility of separation anxiety in your new dog, or addressing it in your current dog, here are a few things to consider. To help prevent separation anxiety: 1. Make sure you're consistent with your dog's physical, mental and social enrichment outlets. A change, decrease or lack of consistency in these outlets can trigger different behavioural concerns, including anxiety as a whole. A dog who feels fulfilled, happy and mellow due to activities you do together is one that's more likely to react relatively calmly, to different situations. Has your dog practiced showing independence? 2. If your dog often feels the need to be really close to you, even when tired, you will want to go out of your way to slowly build and reinforce instances where your dog happens to give you space. Even if it's something as small as being in another room for a few minutes, to start. If your dog has a really tough time taking time and space apart from you when you're both home, try a different setting where doing so is a little easier for him, like during group play sessions or playdates. "The first step to correcting a mistake is patience." Are you using a crate or another small/restrictive area? 3. I am all in for crate training, however, crate training is the most successful with a dog that is already okay with being apart from you to some extent. Each dog is different but for a lot of them, being asked to be away from you AND in a small confined space can be a lot to handle at once. Work your way up, and until you're both ready, consider alternatives like dog sitting/boarding. Slow and steady always wins the race. 4. Whether you've worked your way up to having your dog stay comfortable on the crate, or free inside your home, if you want to leave you will need to start doing so gradually. Walk in and out randomly and for a few moments. Head out and come back in without saying or doing anything out of the ordinary. The less your dog feels a difference with you there vs away, the easier it'll be for him to adjust to the change. If your dog cries after you've walked out for 2 minutes, practice walking out and back in after 1 minute, and then 1 minute and 10 seconds, and 20 seconds, etc. Only practice makes perfect. 5. Continue practicing the slow increase in time apart, so that your dog can continue letting you know what he can handle. Separation is something that's not natural for most dogs, being as social as they are. But this doesn't mean it can't be trained, and at any age. In instances where you have no choice but to head out for a long period of time that you know your dog can't handle your best option is to have someone else be with your dog at your home or theirs. Separation Anxiety isn't easy. Tackling anxiety in general takes a lot of work. The important thing to remember is that our dogs need guidance, patience and understanding while they do their very best to make us happy and figure out the world around them!