Never confront or try to correct a growling dog. Growling is a common and healthy behaviour among dogs that is used to communicate an important feeling at that time. Instead, redirect with a scent to help your dog change their mindset and reward that change. Giving space, remaining calm and patient (being quiet helps too!) will help and allow our dogs to slowly change their own emotion for a better one that we can then reinforce with our attention.

E-collars can be very damaging, not only physically, but emotionally and mentally as well and can be very detrimental to your relationship with your dog, just like all and other aversive training methods. These types of collars can also instigate other behavioural issues as they are not designed to help you address the root of the issue, but rather suppress it and mask it temporarily. Instead of any kind of shock collar, consider using either a flat collar or a harness, as well as the support of a positive reinforcement training to instead work on guiding your dog towards success in a fun, encouraging and harm-free way that will ensure your dog never feels any kind of pain or frustration.

Begin with the command sit! It's a simple command that you can also practice easily by first doing fun games and when your puppy feels relaxed and at ease you will notice they will naturally be more inclined to sit down without you saying a word. As they start to sit (putting their bum on the floor) say the word Sit and follow with a reward. What this will do is help them understand that when you say the sit command in the future, that they should associate it not only with the action of sitting but also of feeling calm and relaxed.

Aside from their taste and that they come by more rarely than their kibble, a lot of pet parents use treats when they'd like their dog to accomplish something in particular which is in itself very rewarding for dogs. This is why dogs prefer treats and often lose interest in their kibble, all due to how we present both to dogs. And so if you'd like too have your dog prefer his food a little more than they do now, consider new ways to offer it to your dog. An easy and fun way to start doing so would be food puzzles and snuffle mats!

The moment you bring your puppy home! It's ultimately not about the age of your puppy, but rather the amount of time you want them to get used to the idea of being inside a crate. Start at whichever pace and capacity you feel you and your pup are most comfortable. All depending on their age, demeanour, and comfort level. Crate training should start as a fun but calm and engaging activity (snuffling, hiding food, hiding toys inside) to get your pup feeling curious and interested in spending time there, without any pressure. Furthermore, make sure that your pup's crate is something they get to access to mainly when they're tired. This is to increase the likelihood that tje association with resting can be clearly formed. Once your pup is comfortable being in and around your crate without it being closed, you can keep it closed while they're not inside, so that you open it only when they're feeling tired/in need of rest. Saving the crate for when they're actually tired will help create that association and interest in the crate, as it will feel even more special, and just right!

One of the quickest and most fun ways for dogs to burn physical energy is through their prey drive! You should definitely get one! Though there are many ways to use this type of toy, a Flirt Pole makes for an easy and on-the-go tool that your dog will love. It's typically a toy more closely related to cats, but dogs can have just as much prey drive, if not more. Just make sure that you're using it with your dog moderately, as it can be a very stimulating activity, and one that your dog can very easily get hooked on. So keep it short and sweet, but fun!

The groomer needs to be a regular staple of their routine! So, to the best you can, try bringing your pup for visits to the doggie grooming salon every day, if possible. If not, break down the steps your groomer would take and practice those at home! Such as touching your dog's paws here and there, touching him with towels, hair & nail trimmers as well as a blow dryer. Do all the above occasionally but daily, and more importantly between fun games and tasty snacks to make it something your dog looks forward to!

The best thing you can do is move on from it! Chances are it could have either been prevented (by us) in some way and/or your puppy just couldn't hold it in anymore. Whether it was because they were waiting too long, or we forgot to take them out, or they've been drinking too much water, or even purely out of excitement. Much like with a baby, toddler or child who has an accident, the best thing you can do is not get frustrated, accept that it happens and move on from it. Don't let that be something that gets in the way of your relationship with your pup! Plus, chances are that your pup won't understand why you're not happy with them to begin with. So instead focus all your attention on when your pup DOES pee outside or on their designated pee pad. If you're finding there's an abnormal amount of accidents, begin by better monitoring your pup's water intake and reaching out to your vet to rule out a UTI.

Not at all! Dogs are very social animals however they are also individuals. Not all dogs want to/need to meet on walks and there can be many reasons why. Shy dogs will benefit a lot from being able to maintain distance and be allowed to slowly approach, at their own comfort. Reactive dogs need more training support but not being allowed to meet if the setup isn't ideal will prevent an unwanted scenario from taking place. Overly excited dogs may benefit more from an open (safe & controlled) environment where they can let their energy out first, before being expected to meet or not meet other dogs on walks calmly.

If your vet has found no health issues, grass eating can be attributed to the taste of grass as well as boredom. if you suspect that your dog is eating grass out of boredom, there's a lot you can do to help him/her out! Just like with any unwanted behaviour in dogs, it's important to know that if it's being practiced it's because it's a behaviour that works for them. Dogs don't do and repeat things without a purpose. With that said, your best bet at ensuring your dog is less likely to want to eat grass, you want to make sure that you are providing your dog with regular outlets for their physical and mental stimulation needs. Physical enrichment can consist of going for runs, playing fetch, tug and pull games, using a flirt pole and mental enrichment encompasses training classes, nosework and scent detection games, puzzles, snuffle mats, and new/different activities you and your dog experience together. Got some of these outlets down pat? Next, it's time to focus on the actual behaviour you want to tackle. Practice addressing the issue at hand when your dog is feeling relaxed and mellow from the above activities. A mellow and tired brain is more likely to 1. Not practice the unwanted behaviour (in which case you can then mostly focus on rewarding the desired behaviour) 2. Provide you with a dog that is more likely to follow your guidance, and this is key. Providing guidance is your main and best training tool, as you practice going through the scenario which normally leads to unwanted behaviour, but in a way where you are keeping a close eye on the patterns and indicators that it's about to happen, instead of just letting it happen, you can there and then interrupt the habit by guiding your dog's body and mind into something else (like a game, your attention, and affection, or even a stuffed Kong.). The idea with practicing this is that it makes it so your dog doesn't get to repeat the unwanted behaviour with no hesitation because you are providing a new habit/behaviour that feels even better for them, that will with time replace the old habit. Try this on your next walk or park visit and see how successful you can be at guiding your dog away from its grass-eating habit!