Use a commercial de-skunking spray, or if worse comes to worst, combine 3-4 parts hydrogen peroxide to one part of baking soda with a teaspoon of dish detergent, and apply that to the affected area, being especially careful near the eyes or mouth.

First and foremost make sure you take your dog to your vet (and it never hurts to get a second opinion!) For a dog to not eat their poop they need to have developed great impulse control, and we also need to work with them in a way that their environment is setup for them to succeed. This means that while still training, you nee to avoid as many instances where your dog is able to eat poop, as possible. Not having our dog repeating an undesired behaviour is always a win! Next you want to practice on those impulse controls. Do so by redirecting their attention little by little when faced with other no-to-harmful temptations indoors like treats and toys. Once the impulse control skills have improved greatly, you can then put those to the test out on walks where you may want to actively seek out dog poop but practice again redirecting your dog's attention away (walking away is always best at first, as opposed to practicing a command like sit or leave it) and further practice by closing the distance between your dog and the tempting poop!

Change how your dog sees their food! The reason dogs love treats is not only the taste but rather how we present each piece to them. Make use of food puzzles, snuffle mats, fun/challenging new toys and your dog's walks to provide them their kibble, instead of their bowl. Most dogs are not interested in their dog bowls because they don't meet a core need of a dog which is to have to figure out, search, scavenge and hunt for ways to find and get to each bite!

An ounce per pound is a common ground rule you will hear but you can double check with your vet as well as take into account your dog's daily activities, the weather and the temperature inside your home.

Dogs think and make decisions every second. What they are thinking of depends mostly on their environment and what they're already doing at the time. However, the most common instance where you're probably wondering what your dog is thinking is when they're looking at you, at home, and the answer would be: "What's happening next?" That's all there's to it! Dogs have become mankind's best friend partly because they're ready and happy to do things with us, at all times. There are of course exceptions to the rule if you can think of dogs that would rather spend most of their time napping, but as you can imagine most dogs will get up from their bed, wag their tail and jump the moment you grab their leash to go for a walk thinking of what will happen next.

Unless your pup is sleeping (rest is really important!), doing little 15-20 minute training sessions every few hours is a good start! If/once you join a group class as your pup gets a little older, you will see they'll be able to handle longer training periods but the most important thing is to pay attention to how they're feeling every second. You want to make sure that they're in the right mood and not over tired, for best results and ensure training is something your pup always enjoys!

If you'd like for your puppy's crate to become the place they go to to rest, take a break, relax, feel food and calm then yes, 100%! Dogs by nature like to rest and take a break in darker quite areas (you can cover the crate with a blanket) and so long as you don't use the crate as a punishment tool, because your pup has done something you dislike or only when you're leaving them along for longer than they can handle, then there's lots to gain from using a crate!

There's a few ways you can prepare. Start by leaving part of your dog's meal for the session, so that they have a little bit of an appetite for during their training session and can enjoy regular food more, as a reward for the amazing things they'll get to do with you. Bring with you any questions you may have, and even a stuffed/frozen kong for your dog to enjoy on the way back home.

Use the Freedom (No Pull) Harness to more easily guide your dog on walks in a harm-free way. Combine this with a lot of patience and positive reinforcement to have both you and your dog feel good about every step you take together. Use the front clip and/or the back clip depending on your dog's training needs out on walks.

The best way to correct a dog is by instead letting them know the behaviour that is acceptable and that you're happy to see them repeat. The moment we try to correct a dog, they are not creating the association to the action that is causing the 'correction' that we think they are, which can cause frustration and confusion for them and us. Instead, we may without meaning to be reinforcing the behaviour we're not happy with which can cause them to repeat it. The next time you want to correct a behaviour, ask yourself how you could have prevented it first (Was your dog feeling bored, anxious, afraid, overtired, overexcited?) and do your best to wait until they instead display a behaviour you are happy with and focus on rewarding that.